Filet Crochet

It seems nonproductive to repeat what has already been so well done, so I will show you what I have learned as I embarked on the sea of filet.

Disclaimer: I am a beginner at filet, just like you. I've done some research, and I've actually worked the pieces I've shown here. This tutorial is based on what I know at this time. If I find any errors, or if you do, they will be changed as soon as I know about them.

First, what is filet crochet? Simply put, it is a series of blocks, some empty or open, and some filled in. Each block is called a mesh. A mesh is made using double crochets and chains. There are different ways you can do this. One is by using a (dc, ch 1, dc) which is called a 3-dc mesh, and the other is the (dc, ch 2, dc) which is called the 4-dc mesh. They are named as such because when you fill the mesh in you will have either 3 or 4 dc in your block (mesh). That is, if it's all by itself.

What may or may not be obvious to you is that if you have blocks next to one another, they will share sides. So in a mesh of (dc, ch 2, dc) the ending dc is the beginning dc of the next mesh. Sound confusing. It is, until you get used to the idea.

Sounds simple enough, right? So if you can design a picture using blocks, you should be able to create a filet crochet design. I might mention that you could use the same designs you have for cross-stitch. Instead of making an "x" on fabric, you would just crochet a solid mesh where the x would be and open mesh where there is no x. Why don't they just call them blocks? I don't know the answer to that one so let's move on.

Oops. I forgot to mention one very important thing. When you are crocheting, you work one row and then what do you do? You turn. Well, most of the time. You do the same thing with your filet work, unless you're working in the round on a doily perhaps. So when you read a filet chart, you will read from left to right sometimes, and from right to left sometimes. First row is read right to left although in this design it won't really matter because it is symmetrical - the same on both sides. In other patterns, however, note that the ODD rows (right side) are worked right to left, and the EVEN rows (wrong side) are worked left to right. The foundation chain does NOT count as a row.

What is the first thing you would have to do? What does every piece of crochet begin with? Right! A foundation chain. You have to figure out how many chains to make.

True. But before you do that, you have to decide if you are going to do a 3-dc mesh or a 4-dc mesh. Let's say, for the purposes of this discussion, I will choose 4-dc mesh.

So I have 7 boxes or mesh (meshes?) on my first (bottom) row. (You work from bottom to top on most things) A mesh = 4 dc. 7 x 4 = 28. So I would chain 28, right? Wrong. Remember that each box shares a side. Okay, so instead of each box having 4 parts, it has 3. Fine. Let's multiply 7 x 3. 21. That will do it, right? Wrong again. You forgot the first post of the first mesh. I guess that depends on which way you're counting, but in any case, either the first or the last mesh will have an extra if you're counting by 3. Every mesh has 3 posts or dc for itself and shares one. So you have the right idea with the 3. But when you get to the first one, you have the three and then there's the right most post, made by your chains when you worked your first stitch.

Ch 26, dc in 8th chain from hook. What?? Why do I want you to go into the 8th chain from hook? I have to admit, that one had me for a little while too. But then I looked at the thing. You need an open block. So your end stitch has to have 2 chains on the bottom, 2 chains on the top, and a post to the right made up of 3 chains. That's 7. You're going INTO the 8th chain, so that leaves 7. Yay! That works. Understand? No? You'll see after you make it. Trust me. Would I lead you wrong? Well, not on purpose. LOL chain 26. Go into the 8th chain from hook.

It is just a coincidence that there are 7 mesh on this row and also 7 chains on the first mesh. Don't get hung up on that. It will always be 7 chains if your first mesh is open, but it will not always be 7 mesh on the first row.

Mesh	1st block solid, chain	1st block open, chain	into the foundation chain - 1st block open	into the foundation chain - 1st block solid
3 dc	blocks x 2 + 3	blocks x 2 + 4 (tch)	8 (2 bottom, 2 top, 3 side)	4
4 dc	blocks x 3 + 3	blocks x 3 + 5 (tch)	8	4

So we go on to our second row. Our first mesh is an open, so we have to chain 5 this time. Why not 8 again? We still need 2 on the bottom, 2 on the top, and 3 on the side. Aha! But we already have 2 on the bottom from the previous row. Gotcha!

We are on Row 2, so we're reading from left to right. We need two open mesh and then a solid. So what do we do?

ch 5 as we said, dc in the first dc, ch 2, then dc in the next dc. That gives us two open mesh (Figure A).

Reading left to right, we see we need a solid mesh next. Remembering that the dc we just made also is part of the next mesh, we insert hook in the ch-2 space and work 2 dc there, then dc in next dc to complete the solid mesh.

Then we have a solid mesh so we work 2 dc in the space, then a dc in the next dc. The rest of the row is open mesh, so we chain 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, then we are the end of our row. Skip two chains and dc in the third chain of the turning chain-5. You might have to finagle that last chain and turn it around so you can more easily make your stitch in it. I like my chains to "face front". :-)

Continue to follow the chart for Row 3. (It might be helpful if you mark the rows as you finish them with a highlighter or a checkmark, or whatever works for you.)

Your last row (Row 5) will be just like your first one was. 3 open mesh, one solid, 3 open

Voila! Congratulations. You have just worked your first filet pattern. Good job! Have some popcorn. Popcorn is good for you - well, your dentist might not think so, cos it's hard on the teeth if you get those little pieces stuck in there. Hurts too. But other than that, you can eat a lot of popcorn if you don't put too much butter or salt on it.

Now for the bad news. Patterns for filet crochet will not be written as I've just done. I held your hand throughout the piece. Patterns will almost always have a graph (picture) as our little chart, but written directions will simply tell you to follow the graph. They may give you the starting chain and simple reminders as to how to work filet. They might also show the pattern using symbols. Here is a chart of the symbols. The diagonal line may be straight, depending on publisher.

International Symbols	Domestic (U.S.)	Foreign (England, Australia, etc.)
	slip stitch	single crochet
	chain	chain
	single crochet	double crochet
	double crochet	treble
	half double crochet	half treble
	triple crochet	double treble
	double treble	triple treble
	triple treble	quadruple treble

Another important point is to keep in mind the materials you are using. If you are using fine crochet thread your piece will be small. But if you make that same design using worsted weight yarn, it will be much larger. I'm saying MUCH larger. For example, the pattern I am working says to ch 73. It is supposed to be about 7" x 2.5" using a 1.5mm hook. The picture below shows the first row worked in #10 cotton with a 2mm hook, and then with worsted weight yarn using an H hook. See what a huge difference it makes. The larger hook (and probably my looser stitches) increased the size of the pattern piece, and the thicker yarn increased it even more.

Here's a picture of my finished lighthouses. The one on the left is worked with #10 crochet cotton and a 2mm hook. The one on the right is worked in Caron Wintuk worsted weight yarn and an H hook. Don't know if you can read the measure but the smaller one is about 9" and the larger one just shy of 20", a tad over twice the size of the other one. (click on thumbnail to see it larger)

Here's a few things I've learned while working this lighthouse bookmark - besides the fact that I do much better with yarn than thread *wink*. Firstly, this bookmark by Lee Mathewson is a great intermediate project. The instructions are clear and detailed with pictures and diagrams. Go have a look at her web site hugg'ems collectables. The instructions are clear and detailed with pictures and diagrams. Once I got going, I realized that with practice I could get to like this. A lot of practice perhaps, but still it's a very worthy method of crochet you might investigate if you've never done it before. Just as in "regular" crochet, keeping tension is the most difficult part. Once you get that down, the sky's the limit.

Q: This graph is so small I can hardly see it.
A: Enlarge it. Some copy machines allow you to increase or decrease the size of the item you're copying. If the picture is in your computer, you can use a program like Paint Shop Pro to enlarge it. Remember that this is for your own personal use. You can't change the pic and then say it's yours or post it somewhere changed. That picture belongs to the designer. But for your own use as you work the pattern, you can print up a larger copy. (I am not a lawyer. This is just my opinion.)

Q: I keep losing my place in the graph.
A: Notice what is on the row below. When you see you have to work a certain number of open spaces, look to see where the open spaces end. Is it one space before a group of solid mesh on the previous row? It can help you keep track of what you're doing.

You can also print out the graph and use a highlighter to mark off the rows as you do them.

You might number the rows so you can tell at a glance if it is an odd or even row. Odd rows are worked right to left, as I said before, and even left to right.

Q: This is not coming out right. I am so frustrated.
A: Patience, padawan. (That in no way intimates I am a master at anything, including Jedi stuff) It takes time to learn something new. Perhaps you are forgetting that each mesh has a side in common. In other words 5 dc is two solid mesh in a 3dc mesh pattern because the middle dc counts for each one of the blocks. [ Side note: A 3dc mesh you will remember, is (dc, ch 1, dc) ] This makes a huge difference in your counting process. If you are working solids over a row of open mesh, you can use the open mesh to help you count. IMHO, the first row is the hardest because you have nothing to judge it by.

Q: This looks terrible. The stitches are all misshapen.
A: First time you work with tiny thread? You need to adjust your tension. It takes a while to get the hang of keeping the thin thread tight, especially if you're used to working with yarn.

Q: Ack! My 7" bookmark is two feet long!
A: You either totally miscounted or you're using a different material than is called for in the pattern. That is okay, but your work won't be the same if you use different, and not equal, material. If it calls for #10 thread and a 1.5mm hook, but you use worsted weight crochet cotton and an F hook, it will be larger. If you use chunky yarn and an N hook, even larger. It may not look quite right as well, if it's a picture, because the proportions may be wrong. Think of a picture you are working on in the computer. When I want to resize a picture I have to hold down the shift key to keep the proportions the same. If I don't, it looks off. Short and fat, or tall and skinny. Your filet project MIGHT look just fine, or it might not. Just know that if you want your piece to come out the same as the pattern you're using, you should check gauge, and use the materials suggested. It is quite possible you could substitute a similar weight and drape material, but if size is important to you, check gauge.

Q: This doesn't look at all like the picture!
A: Odd rows are worked right to left. Even rows are worked left to right. An easier way to remember if you can tell right from wrong side (which you should be able to) is Right side is worked right to left. Wrong side is worked left to right. If you do not follow this guideline, you will be placing your open and solid meshes in the wrong spot, hence making a totally different picture than you had in mind.